AvroKO Blends Past With Present in Centara Reserve Samui

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Centara Reserve Samui is a modern luxury retreat located in Ko Samui, Thailand, designed by AvroKO. This resort renovation leans heavily on the architectural heritage of its location, weaving elements of the colonial past with the intricate artistry of traditional Thai wood carvings. The designers have skillfully updated these influences, opting for simplified forms and geometric patterns, all while introducing a striking theme that plays with the perception of weight and buoyancy across the resort’s design.

Lobby with dramatic tiered chandelier

Upon entering, guests are greeted by an elevated pathway leading to the lobby, flanked by water features that seem to defy gravity with their marble-stepped design encircling a verdant tropical centerpiece. The lobby itself is a study in balance and contrast, with a monumental reception desk set against oversized teak cabinets and ethereal floral art installations suspended from above. The material palette is deliberately muted, emphasizing texture over color.

Lobby seating area

Sa-nga venue with ornate lattice ceiling

The resort features three dining experiences – Act 5, The Terrace, and Sa-nga – each blending colonial architecture with Thai motifs to maintain unique identities. Act 5 exudes formality with its homage to the pong lang instrument and a modern butcher’s shop aesthetic, accented with teak wood and custom floor tiles. The Terrace lightens the mood with its olive and white palette, curved bar, and organic elements inspired by natural formations. Sa-nga, playful and vibrant, draws from Benjarong ceramics and features Gaudí-inspired designs, showcasing the resort’s knack for blending cultural influences.

Brass room numbers

Guest bedroom with seating area

Curved bedframe headboard

Guest room with curved wood screen

Guest bathroom with soaking tub

Guest bathroom with soaking tub

The guest rooms extend the thematic interplay of tradition and modernity, with features like curvilinear wood screens and stone desks that enhance the sense of privacy and luxury while maintaining a connection to the resort’s design ethos. The use of light and neutral colors, along with carefully chosen materials and decorative lighting, continues the narrative of contemporary elegance informed by heritage.

Bedframe with hanging pendants

Guest bathroom with bathrub and pendant

Minimalist chair adjacent a pool

To learn more about AvroKO’s iconic hospitality design visit avroko.com.

Photography by Owen Raggett.

Leo Lei translates his passion for minimalism into his daily-updated blog Leibal. In addition, you can find uniquely designed minimalist objects and furniture at the Leibal Store.



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An icon turns 65: Barbie’s changing style showcased in London exhibition | Exhibitions

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You don’t have to be a devotee of popular culture to have noticed the omnipresence of brand Barbie over the past year.

The release of Greta Gerwig’s cinematic portrayal of the world’s most famous doll has led to Barbie being inserted into debates far beyond the realms of showbiz, from geopolitical border disputes to discussions on the state of feminism.

But one place where Barbie’s influence is undeniably justified is in the world of design and fashion. Or so says the curator of Barbie: The Exhibition, a new London showcase of items from the pink and plastic world first manufactured by Mattel in 1959.

“A number of fashion designers have said Barbie was their first client,” said the exhibition’s curator, Danielle Thom. “Martin Margiela talks at length about as a teenager playing with his sister’s Barbies and making clothes for them. Jeremy Scott, the former creative director at Moschino, did an entire ready-to-wear catwalk collection in 2015 – we want to show some archived looks from that show. We’re in conversation about that. Barbie’s been used to influence real fashion bodies. For me it was always about the clothes,” said Thom.

Billie Eilish wears a replica of Barbie’s ‘Poodle Parade’ outfit when performing with Finneas O’Connell at the Grammy awards. Photograph: Mike Blake/Reuters

The Design Museum exhibit will feature more than 180 dolls including the rare first edition known as “Number 1 Barbie”. Dozens of original Barbie outfits will also be on show that demonstrate the doll’s origins in fashion, including “Poodle Parade”, a lifesize replica of which was worn by Billie Eilish when she performed at the Grammys earlier this month.

The exhibition, which opens on 5 July, will explore Barbie’s changing appearance in relation to evolving cultural shifts around diversity and representation. There will be examples of the first black, Hispanic and Asian dolls to bear the Barbie name. The first Barbie with Down’s syndrome, the first using a wheelchair, and one designed with a “curvy” body shape will also be included.

Thom said preparation work for the show had taken place long before the film was released. She concentrated on the idea of Barbie only being a blond, blue-eyed white-skinned woman. She said she familiarised herself with the Barbie line and “to an extent Mattel was more diverse” than it is given credit for, with a nod to Kitty Black Perkins, who designed the first black Barbie dolls throughout the 1980s and 1990s.

“Something we explore is hair play. Hair has the potential to be emotional and political in how different hair textures have been represented and treated. These days the different variations on offer are for all hair textures and colours. They pay attention to different details like painting baby hairs on the hairlines of afro dolls which is a recent innovation but shows they are thinking of accuracy.

Examples of the first black, Hispanic and Asian Barbies will be on show. Photograph: James Manning/PA

“Earlier there wasn’t as much thought into hair texture: their hair is straightened no matter the complexion. So hair is a narrative theme, it is a huge component in finding the dolls’ perceived identity and letting children see themselves,” said Thom.

The Barbie universe’s evolution will also be on show including the playsets, vehicles, houses and other accessories that have been used to design the world in which the doll exists. There will also be a section dedicated to Ken, charting the doll’s development from his introduction in 1961.

It is the first time a major UK museum has held a show dedicated to the doll. The Design Museum drew on Mattel’s archives in California for a number of important loans and used the company’s brand archivists.

Kim Culmone, the senior vice-president of design for Mattel, said Barbie had become an “international icon” and that the doll had been leaving a mark on culture for 65 years. Thom said she wanted Barbie fans to come away knowing there was a world of in-depth design thinking around it.

She also hoped design fans were surprised because a toy had this complex network of intentionality behind it. “There is an acute design thinking that goes into making these dolls and their universe,” she said.

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What to See in N.Y.C. Galleries in March

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This week in Newly Reviewed, Holland Cotter covers the Studio Museum in Harlem’s residency results at MoMA PS1, Sarah Grilo’s little-seen paintings at Galerie Lelong and Mary Lucier’s heartfelt video art at Cristin Tierney Gallery.

Through April 8. MoMA PS1, 22-25 Jackson Avenue, Queens; (718) 784-2086, momaps1.org.

In 1968, the Studio Museum in Harlem initiated a yearly residency program that provided a stipend and studio space for making new art, with, as the museum’s website notes, “priority given to artists working in nontraditional materials.” This year’s cohort of three young participants handily meets that formal criterion, as seen in their lively topping-off show, hosted by MoMA PS1 while the Studio Museum’s new building is under construction.

Two of the artists create imaginative worlds from found materials. The first thing you see in a gallery of work by the Haitian-born Jeffrey Meris is a large suspended sculpture, “To the Rising Sun,” made from dozens of outward-bristling crutches held together with C-clamps. The solar reference makes descriptive sense, though the piece also suggests a giant coronavirus. Apocalyptic, trending Afrofuturist, is the vibe here, in the presence of two silicone-cast human bodies that seem to be melting, and a monumental collage called “Imperial Strike” that catches a terrestrial Big Bang in progress.

A second alternative universe, this one a kind of magical garden of paintings and sculptures assembled by Devin N. Morris, is more recognizably earthly, with its images of landscapes and people. But it’s formally even more unorthodox, combining standard art materials (watercolor, pastel, oil paint) with scraps salvaged from Harlem’s streets: dice, mirror shards, electrical cords’ wires, bamboo reeds, silk flowers, nail polish bottles and fentanyl test strips. Morris turns all of this into a kind of walk-through urban Eden of grit and delicacy.

The installation by Charisse Pearlina Weston feels more like a straightforward sculpture display, but this work too has its twists and contortions. Weston’s primary medium is clear blown glass, often slumped, collapsed or broken, and, in some cases etched with barely readable images and words. While staying abstract it clearly alludes to authoritarian tactics including “broken-window policing.” And the work here — organized by Yelena Keller, an assistant curator at the Studio Museum, and Jody Graf, an assistant curator at MoMA PS1 — along with her 2022 solo at the Queens Museum, establishes her a remarkable talent, and one fully arrived.

Through March 30. Galerie Lelong, 528 West 26th Street, Manhattan; (212) 315-0470, galerielelong.com.

The painter Sarah Grilo (1919-2007) was born in Buenos Aires and spent most of her life in Europe. But a Guggenheim fellowship brought her to New York City in 1962, and an eight-year stay here transformed her art, as demonstrated in this fine survey of little-seen paintings — “The New York Years, 1962–70” — organized by Karen Grimson.

Grilo arrived here as a purely abstract painter and stayed one for a while, as the 1963 “Green Painting,” with its brushy blocks of emerald and aquamarine, attests. But the United States, racially divided and headed toward war in Asia, was in a manic mood, and New York was New York, always jacked to the max. Those environmental factors, along with an art world in which Pop was huge and abstraction in retreat, shook up her work.

Her paint application began to get lighter and looser but wired. And she began to add a new element: language, in the form of headlines cut from news magazines. These words and phrases — “Our heroes,” “Win, it’s great for your ego” — filter up from tangles of paint. In 2017 Grilo had a memorable moment with the inclusion of a painting in the Museum of Modern Art exhibition “Making Space: Women Artists and Postwar Abstraction.” The work is on view in the museum’s permanent collection galleries, and it’s great to have a context for it in this fuller sampling at Lelong.

Through March 2. Cristin Tierney Gallery, 219 Bowery, second floor, (212) 594-0550, cristintierney.com.

The experimental video artist Mary Lucier turns the medium that she pioneered in the 1970s in a distinctly personal direction in a wonderful new installation called “Leaving Earth.” The piece begins with a screen scrolling short, ruminative phrases excerpted from a journal kept by Lucier’s husband, the painter Robert Berlind, recording his thoughts on his approaching death in 2015.

These phrases also appear on several other screens affixed at different levels to upright poles in front of the gallery’s west-facing windows. But here the words are interspersed with a succession of images, still and moving. Some are snapshot-like: faces of family and friends; the interior of the house in upstate New York that Lucier and her husband shared. Nature is ever-present in close-ups of breeze-touched field flowers and nesting birds. Mortality, repeatedly, intrudes: in a shot of ground zero on Sept. 11; in pitilessly sustained footage of a dying fawn breathing its last.

Lucier is silently present for all of this: Her face, passive, stares down from a high-up screen. And her husband is present too, seen swimming underwater in a clear stream. “Leaving Earth” is a deeply emotional piece, and a complicated one: a heartfelt lament, a stoic salute and a thing of great beauty.

See the February gallery shows here.

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erwin wurm explores garments as surrogates at thaddaeus ropac

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new erwin wurm sculptures land at Thaddaeus Ropac London

 

Thaddaeus Ropac London presents Surrogates, an exhibition of new sculptures by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm, including three series of works shown for the first time: Paradise, Mind Bubbles, and Dreamers. On view concurrently with the artist’s major institutional survey at Yorkshire Sculpture Park in Wakefield, the exhibition features painted metal and epoxy resin sculptures alongside key developments in the continuation of his iconic One Minute Sculptures. Together, the works assembled embody Wurm’s characteristically expansive approach to sculpture as he disrupts traditional distinctions between subject and object, the human and the non-human, spectator and participant.

installation view of Surrogates by Erwin Wurm | all images courtesy Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac London

 

 

surrogates: exploring clothes and shoes as second skin

 

Across Surrogates by Erwin Wurm, the familiar is rendered unfamiliar through the artist‘s playful treatment of the sculptural principles of ‘two- and three-dimensionality, mass, volume, skin and surface, movement and time.’ Just as he has previously added volume to cars and houses to reconfigure our relationship to the objects as capitalist status symbols, here, the form of a high-heeled shoe is distorted almost beyond recognition. The heel of the shoe raises the height of an individual in what the artist describes as ‘an act of social play’. With its new swollen appearance – emphasized by the peachy color of one iteration of the sculpture – the form assumes a flesh-like quality that destabilizes ontological boundaries between what is worn on the body and the body itself.

erwin wurm explores garments as surrogates for the human body at thaddaeus ropac london
Walking (Substitutes), 2024 Bronze, patina; 180kg, 205 x 30 x 85 cm; Ed. 1 of 3 + 2 AP

 

 

Clothing has been a critical source of inspiration for Erwin Wurm since the late 1980s when an abundance of second-hand garments near his then-studio prompted extensive experimentation with worn objects. ‘Clothes are our second skin, a shell that separates our bodies from the outside world,he says. Coupled with his investigation into how volume might be articulated, as inspired by his observation that classical bronze sculptures are hollow, this statement led to the formation of works using thin, skin-like membranes of painted aluminum, as represented in the Surrogates exhibition by his Substitute series (2022–). The Substitutes appear as disembodied figures, composed solely from hollow aluminum garments arranged as though worn by a curiously absent body. The garments are deflated in an inversion of the volume added to the shoe in the Paradise series. Their ‘skin’ separates the hidden, internal volume of the sculpture from the external space in which they stand.

erwin wurm explores garments as surrogates for the human body at thaddaeus ropac london
Straight Blue (Substitutes), 2024; aluminium, acrylic paint; 53kg, 190 x 22 x 60 cm; Ed. 1 of 3 + 2 AP | image © Markus Gradwohl

 

 

The garments, poses, and (often monochromatic) color palettes highlight the social values we might ascribe to what an individual chooses to wear. The sculptures become ‘substitutes’ or ‘surrogates’ for the human body, whose volume, mass, and form are defined by the ‘second skin’ of the aluminum clothes. As is characteristic of Erwin Wurm’s practice and encapsulated in the exhibition title, Surrogates, this idea of substitution acts as a social commentary that cuts through the artist’s often humorous treatment of the objects and rituals of everyday life. He conceives of the disembodied Substitutes as a way to call attention to the role of the individual in the rapidly changing social, political, and environmental conditions of the contemporary world, particularly the potential absence of humanity in post-anthropocentric futures. As Max Hollein, art historian and director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, has said of Wurm, ‘he has succeeded in conveying to a large audience, in a hugely suggestive way, the tragedy of its own social condition.’

erwin wurm explores garments as surrogates for the human body at thaddaeus ropac london
Mind Bubble Walking Pink, 2024; aluminium, paint; 200 kg, 230 x 165 x 125 cm; Ed. 1 of TBC + 2 AP | Balzac (After Rodin), 2023 Aluminium, paint; 130kg, 185 x 100 x 70 cm; Ed. 1 of 3 + 2 AP

 

 

With the Substitutes, the absurd becomes a tool through which Wurm asks us, in his own words, to ‘look at the world from a different perspective’ and take ‘paradoxical angles’ to imagine parallel realities and alternative ways of being. Asserting his investigative approach to the concept of sculpture within art historical traditions, elsewhere in the exhibition, Wurm uses clothes to build bodily forms in response to two canonical works of art: Donatello’s Penitent Magdalene (1440) and Auguste Rodin’s Monument to Balzac (1891–97). Wurm explains that with Balzac (2023). ‘I wanted to create a figure where you cannot see a human being, but you get this idea of a person’ emerging from the piled clothes and designer bags. Titled following his observation that the sculpture evoked the semi-abstract monolith of Rodin’s homage to the French novelist Honoré de Balzac, Wurm was inspired by the myth that the French sculptor soaked the writer’s dressing gown in plaster to dress his monumental form.

erwin wurm explores garments as surrogates for the human body at thaddaeus ropac london
Mind Bubble Standing, 2024 Bronze, patina; 150kg; 190 x 100 x 50 cm; Ed. 1 of 3 + 2 AP | Mind Bubble Standing Small, 2024 Bronze, patina; 46kg, 120 x 60 x 32 cm; Ed. 1 of 5 + 2 AP | image © Markus Gradwohl

 

 

Similarly, Repentance (After Donatello) (2023) emulates the folded robe that enshrouds the emaciated body of Mary Magdalene in the Italian Renaissance sculptor’s wooden original. Rendered in painted aluminium, the cascade of pale-pink, knitted jumpers is finished with a pair of white trainers standing atop a bucket. As with the Substitutes, the two sculptures reimagine the human body as an absurd configuration of clothing, responding to the central issue of self-representation in contemporary society. ‘I am interested in everyday life. All the materials surrounding me can be helpful, and the objects and topics can be involved in modern society. My work speaks about the whole entity of a human being: the physical, the spiritual, the psychological, and the political.’

erwin wurm explores garments as surrogates for the human body at thaddaeus ropac london
Breeze Small (Substitutes), 2022 Aluminium, paint, 90 x 32 x 16 cm, Ed. 2 of 5 + 2 AP

 

 

tapping into the human psyche and unconscious

 

Addressing another aspect of the human condition, the Dreamers and Mind Bubbles (both 2024) give form to psychological thought through bodily associations. In the Dreamers, realistic human limbs suspend oversized white pillows above them in playful references to the unconscious. ‘Turning our reality upside down’ through his absurd fusion of bodies and pillows, Wurm indirectly evokes the writing of Austrian psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud and The Interpretation of Dreams (1899). In turn, the Mind Bubbles place ovular forms atop spindly, cartoonish legs in anthropomorphic imaginings of the thought bubbles found in comic strips. Wurm describes them as ‘a symbol of an idea or a specific thought, which is not described’. Building upon his earlier Hypnosis series (2007–8), in which the potato-like forms have realistic human legs, the aluminum sculptures evoke conscious thought. They gesture to the cerebral aspect of his participatory works, in which he often asks individuals to reflect upon their mental states or the theories of great philosophers as they perform a prescribed action.

erwin wurm explores garments as surrogates for the human body at thaddaeus ropac london
Still Blue (Substitutes), 2024 Aluminium, acrylic paint; 65kg 175 x 55 x 45 cm; Ed. 1 of 3 + 2 AP

image © Markus Gradwohl

 

 

These new works at Surrogates are presented alongside a group of the artist’s One Minute Sculptures, which epitomize his innovative approach to time-based, participatory sculpture. Begun in 1996–97, they consist of written or drawn instructions that individuals typically perform on a plinth for up to one minute. Often incorporating everyday objects, they transform the visitor from a spectator into a participant, destabilizing traditional art engagement modes. Installed in Ely House, what Wurm describes as a ‘new chapter’ in the One Minute Sculptures marks a fundamental evolution in the series. Abstract sculptural elements are introduced to each work, which remains present even when a participant does not activate them. Giving the works new life outside the temporal duration of their performance, this development demonstrates Erwin Wurm’s enduring impetus towards artistic evolution, which he has sustained throughout his long and successful artmaking career.

 

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Design Space AlUla: The Latest Chapter in AlUla’s Cultural Awakening Champions Contemporary Design

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Standing out for its bold design is Roth Architecture’s AZULIK luxury eco-resort whose organic form draws on the natural forms of AlUla’s windswept desert landscape. Currently under development, the project offers thrilling glimpses into the region’s future, as does Prior + PartnersCultural Oasis District Masterplan for AlUla. Created in collaboration with Allies and Morrison, the masterplan sets out to reconstruct the town in harmony with the nature that surrounds it in line with Royal Commission for AlUla’s visionary roadmap.

Another ambitious project on dislay is Giò Forma’s Maraya, a mirror-clad multipurpose venue completed in 2020. Named after the Arabic word for mirror, the cubic building ‘disappears’ into its desert setting, not unlike the ancient Nabataean tombs in the area which were sculpted into the sandstone outcrops as opposed to being built directly onto the landscape. Boasting the title of world’s largest mirrored building, its reflective facades create mesmerising optical illusions that allude to the mirages described in historical travel accounts of Arabia. An architectural landmark on its own, the venue also offers an extraordinary rooftop dining experience courtesy of Maraya Social, Michelin-starred British Chef Jason Atherton’s award-wining restaurant. Interweaving Mediterranean, Arabian and British cuisines, Atherton’s menu of shared plates is served amid glorious views of the rock-strewn canyons of Ashar Valley.

Not as flashy but just as substantial, SAL Architects’ renovation of the Ammar Bin Yasser Mosque, a cherished local landmark, and Hopkins Architects’ proposed renovation of Madrasat Addeera, a historic building that originally housed AlUla's first secondary girls school, also speak of the importance of preserving AlUla’s legacy.



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A Mid-Century Modern Inspired Apartment Overlooking the Water

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The Oceana Retreat is a minimal residence located in Bal Harbour, Florida, designed by Hino Studio. The clients, avid art collectors, wanted to showcase their love for both Latin-American flair and European mid-century aesthetics. The design direction is made right from the beginning with the selection of a Gio Ponti style entry foyer floor, which set the tone for the rest of the apartment.

One of the most striking elements of the design is the arched screen that greets guests as they walk in. The screen, made of walnut slats, replaces a large wall that used to cover the dining room, and creates an intimate yet open layout. The screen extends to the bar in the living room and is a seamless piece of millwork that ties the entire space together.

The designer played around with arches throughout the layout, transitioning between the kitchen and dining room, adding to the cohesive and elegant feel of the apartment. Warmth was added to the apartment through the use of walnut paneling and flooring in key rooms such as the primary bedroom and the clients’ office.

Mid-century furniture in the main living area

Slatted wooden partition to separate the programs

Main dining area with mid-century pieces

Main dining area with mid-century pieces

Open living space with hanging shelves and round dining table

Office with mid-century furniture

Bedroom with custom wood-paneled headboard

Bathroom with marbled walls

Photography by Max Burkhalter.

Leo Lei translates his passion for minimalism into his daily-updated blog Leibal. In addition, you can find uniquely designed minimalist objects and furniture at the Leibal Store.



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Throw off the cloak of snobbery and treat fashion as a serious art form | Fashion

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When I read or hear the word “frock”, my heart sinks and my hackles rise: when will fashion be taken seriously? As the most powerful form of non-verbal communication, clothes tell us a lot about people – from their occupation, to religion, to their Indigenous heritage. The now thriving academic discipline of fashion studies rose from schools of anthropology, ethnography, sociology, philosophy, curatorial scholarship and art history. The first postgraduate course in the history of dress was set up in 1965 at the Courtauld Institute – a bastion of the art establishment – to enable curators and art historians to date paintings and describe garments in them accurately. Sadly, many of them continue to get it wrong.

Jonathan Jones’s review of the Sargent exhibition at Tate Britain (Sargent and Fashion review – tragicomic travesty is a frock horror, 20 February) was typical of the snobbish and dismissive attitude often taken towards anything to do with fashion, including the multitrillion-dollar fashion industry that, for better or for worse, ranks as one of the biggest in the global economy, a fact that is seldom recognised. If it was called “garment manufacture” instead of “fashion”, a complicated word freighted with negative connotations, it might be.

Museums such as the V&A and the Tate well know the pulling power of fashion exhibitions and can hardly be blamed, in their currently straitened circumstances, for wanting to cash in on it: on Thursday this week, the Tate exhibition was packed, demonstrating the level of public interest. However, the exhibition is more than just an exercise in ticket sales. Sargent was a great painter who had an affinity with dress and fabric, like Dürer, Holbein, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Velázquez, Gainsborough and Lawrence before him, and traces of their influence resonate throughout his work.

Whatever the distress caused to Jones the by lighting, wall colours and glass cases in wrong places, it is a very rare thing indeed to see garments displayed next to the paintings in which they are depicted, and a special joy to see these same garments interpreted on the canvas with Sargent’s consummate skill and aesthetic judgment. Some of the gowns on display are by Charles Worth, the most prestigious couturier in Paris (not “designer” – the word had not been invented then). Compared with these, Ellen Terry’s beetle-wing-embellished Lady Macbeth stage costume (“costume” is the term for clothing worn for performance, not for garments worn in everyday life) looked dull and lifeless, yet scintillated in radiant, glowing colour from Sargent’s portrait, a testament to his quality as an artist.

Yes, some of the objects displayed to accompany a painting seemed arbitrarily helicoptered in, such as the top hat Jones mentions in his review, but this is not an exhibition about “historic millinery” as he puts it, but one that offers a new approach to a brilliant and prolific artist, just as the National Portrait Gallery’s exhibition Sargent: Portraits of Artists and Friends in 2015 did. This generous, sumptuous array of Sargent’s work tells us much about class, society and fashion at the end of the 19th century, an era of great privilege for some, before the impending rupture of war. As the historian and philosopher Thomas Carlyle wrote in his book Sartor Resartus (1831), one of the first to address the significance of dress with any degree of seriousness: “Clothes, as despicable as we think them, are so unspeakably significant.”
Cally Blackman
London

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Review: Ray Francis Photographs, at Bruce Silverstein Gallery

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In the late 1970s, in Montreal, photography students were obsessed with getting deep blacks — “max black” — in our prints, squeezing the full range of tones out of our black-and-white photo paper. Knowing that light meters were designed to average a scene out to gray, we recalibrated ours to make the shadows in our shots as darkly lush as an Ansel Adams moonrise.

Few of us realized there might be more to blackness than a lack of light. We didn’t understand that in the right hands, the deep, deep blacks might speak to far more than a darkroom technique — to issues of race and segregation.

Four hundred miles south of us, in New York, Ray Francis was printing shots that had the bold shadows we were striving for. Thirty-two of his prints are on view now in “Waiting to Be Seen: Illuminating the Photographs of Ray Francis,” at the Bruce Silverstein gallery in Chelsea, a posthumous show that is Francis’s first solo presentation. He died in 2006, at 69.

In 1963, he helped found the Kamoinge Workshop in New York, a collective dedicated to “photography’s power as an independent art form that depicts Black communities,” according to the Workshop, which is furthering its mission today. The photos on view at Silverstein suggest that, in the circle of Kamoinge, depicting Black people was likely to involve thinking about black tones in a print.

Francis’s images, with their reflections on race, seem to get a special energy and power because of their links to art photography that cared so deeply about the darkness in a black-and-white print.

In his portraits of African Americans, faces are often lit so one side is bright and the other falls off into darkness. He’s hardly the only photographer to use that split lighting, but what’s striking is that he lets the dark side of his faces descend into almost pure black, without the range of velvety tones that “fine art” photography was keen on in his day. That wasn’t because he didn’t know how to achieve that range: His show includes still lifes whose shadows are as subtle as could be; the gallery told me Francis was known in the Kamoinge for his technical expertise. Allowing shadows to fade to pure black seems like a way to assert the role that race played in his subjects’ lives, and also to celebrate it.

Other shots by Francis seem to speak to the same issues, but this time by looking deep into those shadows. A view of a woman’s naked back runs through every shade of near lightlessness, from midnight to charcoal to ebony. But in achieving them, Francis was working against a technology that, used unthinkingly, would have changed her skin tone into a middling gray — the skin tone, say, of a white model with a nice tan. (It’s well known that color film, which Francis does not seem to have used, was once calibrated to flatter Caucasian skin.) Francis would have known that, for more than a century before he was born, in 1937, photographic technique — lighting and exposure, in the studio, and then developing and printing and even retouching, in the darkroom — had deliberately been used to lighten Black complexions, and negate them. Hard not to read the lush blacks in his naked Black back as a criticism of that.

Beginning at least in the 1980s, other artists of color — Kerry James Marshall, Kara Walker, Glenn Ligon — have also made important work about how black tones, on a surface, relate to the idea of a Black race, and that has been much studied among curators and academics. But Francis was working in the quite particular context of what was then called, and hived off as, “fine art photography” — a world ruled by the likes of Adams, Minor White and Edward Weston, none of whom have mattered much within the world of so-called serious contemporary art where Marshall and his peers play their part. Working in that context, however, let Francis make images of African Americans where shadows get added meaning.

And once you’re thinking in those terms, even the black tones in his still lifes start to have a social charge. One still life foregrounds a glass of red wine, which turns into “black” wine in Francis’s black-and-white shot. That glass and its wine takes up just the space that a head would in a close-up portrait; it seems a surrogate for a face. A dark wine bottle, like the one featured as a prop in several Francis portraits, is glimpsed through the stem of his glass; it reads as the body of a Black onlooker, maybe even as an avatar of Francis himself as he takes the shot.

If expertise in achieving black tones was a road to success in the fine-art photography of Francis’s era, invoking the Blackness of race was almost sure to leave you sidelined. Francis had to make his living teaching and doing commercial work, which left him little time to make art. The gallery believes that the prints in this show make up the vast majority of Francis’s surviving work as a fine artist. In his final decade, when photography had at last begun to care, Francis’s production was limited by the diabetes that cost him both legs.

You’ll still sometimes hear people say that a work of art should be judged only on what you can see right on its surface. This show proves that, on the contrary, to reap a work’s meanings you need to know all about who made it, and when. To understand the best photos in the Silverstein show, you need to know about the shadows in an Ansel Adams print — and the Black community Ray Francis set out to honor.

Waiting to Be Seen: Illuminating the Photographs of Ray Francis

Through March 23, Bruce Silverstein gallery, 529 West 20th Street, Manhattan; 212-627-3930, brucesilverstein.com.

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waterfrom embraces an ‘unfinished’ spatial narrative for anest collective boutique in chengdu

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Waterfrom Design conceives ANEST COLLECTIVE’s second boutique

 

Waterfrom Design collaborates with ANEST COLLECTIVE for the creation of the brand’s second boutique in Chengdu. The approach embodies the essence of creativity, drawing from the profound sentiment shared between the architects and the brand regarding the elusive spark of creation. In contrast to the architectural lines of the Shanghai store, the Chengdu boutique reflects the high-end fashion brand’s creative origins, fostering a connection between the narrative of crafting clothing and the spatial environment.

 

The design process embraces imperfection and the ‘unfinished,’ exploring materials, experimental combinations, and beauty in the often-overlooked incomplete state. The creative process involves imprecise arrangements, scattered materials, and spontaneous experiments, all of which can inspire the next idea. The Italian workshop serves as the genesis of ANEST’s narrative, symbolizing unyielding inspiration and uncompromised intuition. The studio, with its interim setups and scattered visuals, embodies the freest state of creativity, shaping the storefront layout with overlapping frames, fireplaces, and paneling.

all images courtesy of Waterfrom Design

 

 

‘imperfect’ spatial arrangement Unveils ANEST’s Creative Process

 

The design by Waterfrom Studio intentionally reveals and conceals elements, creating a contour reminiscent of overlaid frames while mimicking fabric folds in the flooring. The spatial narrative aims to cultivate interaction, sparking curiosity, imagination, and empathy in the viewer. Emphasizing the gleam within details, the design subtly echoes the environment, using fabric stacks and irregular displays to establish visual intensity and tension between fashion and fabric appearance.

 

By leaving gaps and dispersing elements in the narrative, the design inspires appreciation for the traces of creation, embodying the essence of creativity in every strand and thread. The boutique becomes a space where the ‘unfinished’ design encourages viewers to step back and engage with the beauty found in the imperfections of the creative process.

waterfrom embraces an 'unfinished' spatial narrative for anest collective boutique in chengdu
the imprecise scattering and incomplete visuals shape the storefront layout

waterfrom embraces an 'unfinished' spatial narrative for anest collective boutique in chengdu
interim setups within the studio, with unfinished wood and scattered sketches, embody a free state of creativity

waterfrom embraces an 'unfinished' spatial narrative for anest collective boutique in chengdu
patterned floorings mimic fabric folds, as a playful conflict between rigid materials and the illusion of softness

 

[embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNK7M997Nv4[/embed]

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Santnerpass Hut: A Mountain Refuge in the Italian Dolomites Champions Modern Architecture

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When it comes to retreats in remote settings, it’s an oft-repeated trope that guests get to escape the hustle and bustle of urban life and indulge in the beauty of simple things; the reality however is that only a few destinations truly deliver on that promise. One of these is Santnerpass hut, a mountain shelter at the heart of the Dolomites in northern Italy. Perched at an altitude of 2,734 metres at the second highest peak of the UNESCO world heritage-listed Rosengarten Mountain Range, the hut can only be reached on foot via a two or three hour hike, which in combination with the dramatic vistas, makes it a veritable getaway.

Ordinally built in 1956 by local mountain guide Giulio Gabrielli, the hut had remained closed for five years when young couple Michel Perathoner and Romina Huber took it upon themselves to breathe new life into it in 2018, re-opening it a year later. Not ones to rest on their laurels, they later oversaw a complete re-design, courtesy of Bolzano-based Senoner Tammerle Architekten whose contemporary take on the alpine vernacular makes for a breathtaking result. Inaugurated last summer, Santnerpass hut’s striking architecture and minimalist sophistication is complemented by the couple’s hand-on hospitality – Michel works in the kitchen while Romina serves guests.



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Hedi Slimane Dazzles With Design for Celine Miami Flagship

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Upon entering French fashion brand Celine’s newest flagship showroom in Miami, the unmistakable presence and elegance of Hedi Slimane’s vision for Celine – since his debut as creative, artistic, and image director as of 2018 – permeates every detail. A painstaking process of curation between art, materials, and furniture comes together to create a luxurious atmosphere that serves as a perfect duet alongside the fashion statements on display. The space is impactful, yet courteous to both its guests and objects, allowing room for both exploration and observation of its nuanced intricacies.

Contemporary art pieces displayed in Celine

Elegant seating arrangement featuring Slimane-designed pieces

The store’s design emphasizes a blend of timeless elegance and the use of premium natural materials. It skillfully combines various types of natural stones – grey travertine, arabescato, grigio carnico, and grande antique marbles – with warmer textures like oak, brass, and antique gold mirrors. This mix not only enriches the space but situates it firmly within a modern brutalist framework. The store’s interior is further enhanced by lounge areas dotted with vintage and carefully crafted furniture pieces by Hedi himself, each chosen for its sculptural quality and contribution to the overall architectural narrative.

Contemporary art pieces displayed in Celine

Upon entering the ground floor, visitors are greeted with a selection of women’s leather goods, alongside the brand’s fine jewelry, maison, and haute parfumerie collections – all set against a backdrop of antique gold mirrors and strategic lighting. A notable feature here is a marble perfume organ, central to the maison Celine area, surrounded by ornate coffered ceilings that highlight key sections of the store. A mirrored staircase accentuated by light leads to the second floor, presenting an engaging visual journey. This level is dedicated to the Celine Homme collection and women’s ready-to-wear, displayed in showcases made of glass and polished stainless steel all arranged on a basaltina tile floor grid.

Close-up of the marble 'perfume organ' centerpiece in the maison Celine area

Elegant lounge area within Celine's store, featuring vintage furniture

In alignment with the Celine Art Project, the store also features a rich array of contemporary art, including works by Simone Fattal, Maia Ruth Lee, and Soil Thornton, among others. This curated selection of paintings and artworks by Elaine Cameron-Weir, Antonia Kuo, Eli Ping, Davina Semo, Marcelo Silveira, and Lucy Skaer add a layer of cultural depth to the shopping experience, reinforcing Celine’s commitment to blending fashion with art.

Small stool amongst mirrors and marble

Small stool amongst mirrors and marble

Art installation in Celine

Photography courtesy of Celine.

Leo Lei translates his passion for minimalism into his daily-updated blog Leibal. In addition, you can find uniquely designed minimalist objects and furniture at the Leibal Store.

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